History of CoutureSewing Talk

How to sew Chanel-style clothes?

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Over the years, the famous haute couture brand has invented many iconic pieces. From the famous suit to the quilted bag, we explain how to draw inspiration from the Chanel spirit for your next couture project.

The famous tailor

Designed by Coco Chanel in the early ’50s, the tweed suit is probably the most famous silhouette by the Parisian fashion house. It consists of a collarless double-breasted jacket and a pencil skirt with a knee-length hem. Over the years, the famous suit has come in many colors, patterns and lengths. Its best-known version is certainly the white and black jacket, which has survived the decades without losing any of its elegance and modernity.

To draw inspiration from these iconic French fashion pieces, the first step is to buy a quality tweed. Choose wool tweed rather than polyester tweed, which is less durable and warmer. In terms of pattern, you can opt for checks, a mottled color or a more solid hue. For a finish close to the original, choose bright, textured gold buttons. For the pattern, you can use Vogue’s pattern directly inspired by the Parisian brand’s jacket, and Burda’s pattern for the pencil skirt, taking care to choose the shortest, knee-length version.

Gabrielle Coco Chanel in the 1950s.

The little black dress

The little black dress has become an iconic part of women’s wardrobes, popularized by Gabrielle Chanel in 1926. Her famous model, with its knee-length hem and collar close to the neck, was at the time sewn using a crepe sheath. This piece has been taken up and reinvented many times by the great haute couture houses, as well as by Karl Lagerfeld, who headed Chanel for several decades.

To sew your little black dress, you can follow the pattern of the La Coquette dress from Vestiaire Éponyme, which features the famous boat neckline, with velvet, poplin or cotton crepe.

Chanel Little Black Dress

The quilted bag

The Parisian brand is also famous for its quilted bag, highly recognizable in particular thanks to its gold chain shoulder strap. Created in 1955, it has become one of the most emblematic accessories of French fashion.

To achieve a similar effect, you can use a dark leatherette, lined with cotton or viscose of the same color. As for the pattern, choose a simple model like the Patronnes, or a more elaborate bag like Jane Emilie’s Tokyo, which includes a more technical turnstile clasp, and add a golden chain shoulder strap when assembling. It’s all part of a very chic effect!

Coco Chanel, in a sailor suit.

The timeless marinière

While the marinière is now associated with Jean-Paul Gaultier, it was first democratized by Gabrielle Chanel in 1913. The designer worked extensively with jersey knit to create supple, comfortable garments for women.

To sew your marinière, head for the Côme pattern from Joli lab. To keep this piece timeless and classic, sew it with blue and white striped jersey. It’s a great project for getting to grips with this stretchy fabric.

The tweed coat

Tweed is one of the brand’s most emblematic materials. It can be found not only on the famous suit, but also on the brand’s coats. If you want to sew this timeless fabric, make sure you choose a tweed that’s thick enough and contains a majority of wool. Then choose a sober color, such as gray or brown, with discreet stripes.

The Lana pattern from Clematisse Pattern will enable you to make a coat with the same classic cut. You can lengthen the hem slightly so that it falls to the bottom of the calves. And, if you’re comfortable and have some sewing experience, add two patch pockets in place of the original side pockets. Take care with the finishing touches and the choice of copper and round buttons. And top it all off with a beautiful black belt to mark the waist!


What about you? Have you ever tried to draw inspiration for your clothes from this great haute couture brand?


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